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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.